Inner Mongolia is the grassland that wraps around Beijing's northern edge: sky over prairie from Hulunbuir to the Gobi, yurts, horses and the drumbeat of Naadam. China's back garden — but a wild one.
Hulunbuir Grassland is China's most beautiful prairie: in June and July the grass meets the horizon, and flocks drift like clouds. Rent a horse or a jeep and head deep in; at night the yurt door opens onto the Milky Way.
The Ejina poplar forest gives its best two weeks in mid-October: desert poplars turn gold all at once, mirrored in the Ruo Shui River — a blazing farewell. Poplars here are said to live a thousand years standing and a thousand years fallen; they are the desert's legend of endurance.
Hand-grabbed mutton is the prairie's feast: whole leg boiled in lightly salted water and eaten with a knife, dipped in garlic and chilli. Milk tea is the daily constant — salty tea brewed with milk, millet and dried cheese, refilled the moment your bowl runs low. And roast lamb chops, charred over an open fire, are the taste of every Naadam celebration.
Photos: Hulunbuir grassland, Naadam horse racing — via Wikimedia Commons, CC-licensed. Licenses and authors available on the original file pages.