Heilongjiang is the swan at the top of China's map. In winter, Harbin turns the frozen Songhua River into a city of ice sculpture, and Mohe waits in the polar night for an aurora. The cold is real — but the northeast answers it with a steaming pot of stew and a rollicking duet of errenzhuan.

What to See 好玩的

Harbin Ice and Snow World is a winter miracle: ice bricks from the Songhua River build castles and palaces that glow in every colour after dark. Mohe, at China's northernmost point, waits on lucky winter nights for an aurora — the only place in China where you might see one.

What to Eat 好吃的

Guobaorou here is called Harbin-style: a brighter, sharper sweet-and-sour pork. Modern ice cream is a century-old popsicle on Central Street. And tieguodun stews ribs, potatoes, noodles and corn buns in a giant iron pot on the table.

Folk Customs 民间习俗

Photos: Harbin ice world, Mohe aurora, guobaorou — via Wikimedia Commons, CC-licensed. Licenses and authors available on the original file pages.