Yunnan is China's most varied province: snow mountains above tropical valleys, 25 ethnic groups, and old towns that feel like another century. One road takes you from Tibetan plateaus to banana groves.
Dali is the land of “wind, flowers, snow and moon”: the nineteen peaks of Cangshan mirrored in Erhai Lake, best explored by a day of cycling around the water.
Lijiang is the canal town beneath Jade Dragon Snow Mountain — stone lanes, wooden mansions and, at dawn, very few people. And Shangri-La, above three thousand metres, holds the golden roof of Songzanlin Monastery and the lakes of Pudacuo.
Crossing-the-bridge noodles are the province's great theatre: a bowl of boiling broth arrives with raw slices of meat and vegetables, which you slide in yourself to cook. Steam-pot chicken is cooked for hours in a ceramic pot with no added water. And wild mushroom hotpot — only in season, only in proper restaurants — is the taste Yunnan waits all year for.
Photos: Lijiang, Erhai Lake — via Wikimedia Commons, CC-licensed. Licenses and authors available on the original file pages.