The water towns of Jiangnan are less a place than a way of life: white walls, black tiles, little bridges, and sculling boats creaking under stone arches. Pick one — Zhouzhuang, Tongli or Nanxun — stay a night, and open the window at dawn.
Zhouzhuang is the first water town of China, its twin bridges the postcard and its sculling boats the daily transport. Tongli is quieter, its Tuisi Garden hidden down a lane, bridges outnumbering households. And Nanxun is the water town with the world in it: European villas tucked behind Jiangnan gardens.
Hairy crabs are the autumn ritual: the roe-rich crabs of the lakes, cracked open, dipped in ginger vinegar with rice wine. White fish from Lake Tai is the seasonal delicacy, best simply steamed. And grandma's tea is the water-town afternoon: neighbours gathering over tea and snacks, sitting half the day.
Photos: Tongli, Zhouzhuang canal — via Wikimedia Commons, CC-licensed. Licenses and authors available on the original file pages.