Hainan is China's tropics: coconut palms, white-sand bays and the slow rhythm of “dad's tea” in the old arcades of Haikou. It's the island where winter turns into a long beach day.
Sanya is China's tropical coast: the soft sand of Yalong Bay, the clear water of Wuzhizhou Island, snorkelling, sailing or simply doing nothing.
Haikou's arcade old street is the South-Seas style of the old town — baroque and arcade architecture recording the overseas-Chinese history of Hainan. And Wenchang is the coconut capital: one coconut cracked open with a straw is the correct way to start.
Wenchang chicken is the ancestor of Hainanese chicken rice: free-range chicken poached to silky perfection, served with rice cooked in chicken fat and three dipping sauces. Qingbuliang is the island's cooling answer to the heat — coconut milk over red beans, taro, jelly and fruit. And dad's tea is less a dish than a way of life: old men in Haikou's arcades nursing a pot of tea for an entire afternoon.
Photos: Yalong Bay, Wuzhizhou Island — via Wikimedia Commons, CC-licensed. Licenses and authors available on the original file pages.