Chongqing is China's "magic city": the monorail passes through apartment buildings, elevators work as public transport, and maps are basically useless here. The Yangtze and Jialing rivers meet at Chaotianmen, and the mountain city stacks skyscrapers, old streets and the smell of hotpot on top of each other. You don't need a guidebook in Chongqing — just a brave stomach and good shoes.
Hongya Cave is a cliffside village of stilted buildings that glows like a scene from Spirited Away at night. Floor one is a street, and so is floor eleven — in Chongqing, storeys never mean what they should.
The Yangtze River Cableway is the city's most romantic mode of transport. Ride the gondola across the river with boats below and the stacked city on both banks — a few minutes of airtime and the best view in Chongqing.
Wulong Tiankeng is a two-hour drive into one of nature's great works. The Three Natural Bridges are colossal stone arches framing a green sinkhole floor, and even Transformers filmed here. Stand beneath the bridge and look up — you'll feel very small, in the best way.
Hotpot is Chongqing's soul: a nine-grid iron pot, beef-tallow broth, tripe and duck intestine, sweating through the spice and going back for more. Xiaomian — two liang of noodles in red-oil mala sauce — is the city's breakfast and late-night snack, best eaten squatting on a stool. And suancai fen, hot-and-sour sweet-potato noodles, is springy in the mouth and sharp in the broth.
Chuanjiang haozi are the work songs the Yangtze boat trackers shouted while hauling boats through the rapids — each "haiyo" carrying the danger of the river and the grit of the men. The calls are rarer now, but they're listed as intangible cultural heritage, and old trackers still sing them by the river sometimes.
The Tongliang Fire Dragon is Chongqing's Lantern Festival spectacle: bare-chested men whirl a dragon through showers of molten iron, sparks flying — people dancing in fire, a dragon flying through sparks. A folk festival written in courage and molten metal.
Photos: Hongya Cave at night, Yangtze River Cableway, Wulong Three Natural Bridges, nine-grid hotpot — via Wikimedia Commons, CC-licensed. Licenses and authors available on the original file pages.